About 4 kms. from
Montpellier, the town of
Castelnau-Le-Lez
has a population of about 15,000 and is served by Monpellier’s 2nd
tramline. Le Lez is the name of the local river, which gives the town
its name.
The town of Castelnau is home to l’Eglise Saint-Jean-Baptiste, a
church which dates from the end of the 16th century, and has a 14th
century bell tower.
As I was walking around the town, I noticed seashell markers called
“Coquilles Saint Jacques de Compostale” on the sidewalks, as a way to
indicate the pilgrimage route in the Middle Ages from Campostale to
Lourdes (see map photo). The scallop shell has long been the symbol of
the
Camino de Santiago. Over the centuries the scallop shell has taken on mythical, metaphorical and practical meanings.
Two versions of the most common myth about the origin of the symbol
concern the death of Saint James, who was killed in Jerusalem for his
convictions about his brother.
- Version 1: After James’ death, his disciples shipped his body to the
Iberian Peninsula to be buried in what is now Santiago. Off the coast
of Spain a heavy storm hit the ship, and the body was lost to the ocean.
After some time, however, the body washed ashore undamaged, covered in
scallops.
- Version 2: After James’ death his body was mysteriously transported
by a ship with no crew back to the Iberian Peninsula to be buried in
what is now Santiago. As James’ ship approached land, a wedding was
taking place on the shore. The young groom was on horseback, and on
seeing the ship approaching, his horse got spooked, and the horse and
rider plunged into the sea. Through miraculous intervention, the horse
and rider emerged from the water alive, covered in seashells.
The scallop shell also acts as a metaphor. The grooves in the shell,
which come together at a single point, represent the various routes
pilgrims traveled, eventually arriving at a single destination: the tomb
of James in
Santiago de Compostela.
The shell is also a metaphor for the pilgrim. As the waves of the ocean
wash scallop shells up on the shores of Galicia, God’s hand also guides
the pilgrims to Santiago.
The scallop shell also served practical purposes for pilgrims on the
Camino de Santiago. The shell was the right size for gathering water to
drink or for eating out of as a makeshift bowl.
(Source: Wikipedia)
I enjoyed strolling along the pedestrian zone, with the sights and
smells of the local bakery, flower shop, and other stores, as locals
leisurely went about their shopping. Have you ever tasted a “coing”
(quince)?